16 Days in the Norwegian Fjords
- Krisztina Kauker
- Oct 2, 2024
- 16 min read
Updated: Oct 22, 2024
Every summer, we plan a major hike, getting lost somewhere in the north. It's no secret that we have every summer's big adventure planned out until 2026 because we want to explore the different regions of the north gradually rather than rushing through.
Our big trip for the summer of 2024 took us to the Norwegian fjord region, and I’m excited to share that travelogue with you.
I know we’re in a fortunate position since we’re starting from neighboring Sweden, and the Norwegian border is just 200 km away, so our journey begins differently than if we were flying into Oslo. However, the route and the points of interest can still be the same tips.
1.day
Otthon-Vøringfossen vízesés-Hallingskarvet hotel / 712 km
On the day of our departure, we decided to extend our journey a bit since we had already seen some of the sights along the way, and our main destination was the fjords.
The highlight of the first day was the Vøringfossen waterfall, which was shrouded in fog upon our arrival. However, it was worth waiting a bit, as the fog gradually lifted, revealing what is perhaps the most monumental waterfall of the entire trip. It’s located only 300 km from Oslo, making it easily accessible for travelers.
We spent the night in the Hallingskarvet hotel, which is a charming, slightly retro hotel that has become quite deserted over time. Despite this, we enjoyed a fantastic local breakfast with homemade scrambled eggs and all sorts of delicious treats. The owner was very kind and curious about our travels. The hotel has likely seen better and more exciting days, but the value for money was unbeatable in the area, allowing us to have a proper swim and a comfortable bed, which isn’t always the case during our travels.
2.day
Aurlandsvegen 340 km
The day started with a change in plans, as rain was forecasted, and that’s pretty much what we got. So, we rearranged our itinerary. Instead of heading to Flåm, we drove along the Aurlandsvegen, an old road that connects Laerdal and Aurlandsvangen. This scenic route is winding and offers fantastic viewpoints. Today, this road has been replaced by the Laerdalstunnelen, the longest road tunnel in the world, which takes us through the mountain’s core for 24 km.
We specifically wanted to drive the old road, so we spent nearly six and a half hours traveling a route of just about 400 km, but it was exciting.
You can find the complete route for this day at the following link:
3.day
Flåm-Myrdal-Flåm-Vik
The rescheduled day, when we took the train from Flåm up into the mountains, follows one of the most beautiful railway lines in Europe. I’ve written more about it in a previous post, where you can also watch a video of the entire route.
Upon reaching the top by train, most people continue on to Bergen or Oslo, as this is a fully operational railway line. However, we set off to explore the upper part of the valley. There are very steep, winding roads leading to a small lake, where we passed by the Vatnahalsen Høyfjellshotell, which could also be a great accommodation option.
There's also a zipline course from which you can glide back down to the valley floor.
Finally, we walked back to the station and took the last train back to Flåm.
That same evening, we continued our journey towards the fjords, planning to stop in the mountains for the night, as we aimed to catch the ferry in the morning and wanted to be as close to Vangsnes as possible.
We spent the night parked in the mountains near Vik, snuggled up in our sleeping bags in the car, as the temperature dropped to about 5-6 degrees at night. Honestly, I love these spontaneous roadside sleeping experiences, and up north, it’s far from unusual. Waking up at dawn to the sound of sheep passing by, hearing their bells, and then rising with the sunrise, you feel almost at the end of the world in the tranquility of the landscape. The best view for brushing your teeth in the morning greets you, and we somehow adore this.
4.day
Vik-Gaularfjellet-Geiranger 325 km
After waking up in the mountains, we continued on to Vangsnes to catch the ferry, but first, we made a stop at the Hopperstad Stave Church. Despite the pouring rain, it was an incredible sight, and the most interesting part was the distinctive smell—the peculiar scent of tar that all stave churches emit. It was as if we could feel the essence of the Viking Age lingering in the air.
After a 20-minute ferry ride, we arrived in Dragsvik and continued our journey all the way to Geirangerfjord.
The most beautiful part of the segment, even in the rain, was the Gaularfjellet. This is one of Norway's recommended routes that's definitely worth the drive.
We arrived at Vinje Camping late in the evening, but since it was almost twilight even at night, it was hard to notice, mainly due to our fatigue. We set up the tent, had a hot cocoa, and quickly fell asleep next to a waterfall.
5.day
Hellesylt-Stryn-Loen-Kjelndalsbreen-Hjelle-Geiranger/Vinje camping
The day started early, and we were treated to one of the most beautiful sights. I'm sure everyone has seen many photos of Geirangerfjord, just like I have, usually taken in summer with sunshine and lush greenery. However, we experienced it quite differently, and honestly, I preferred it this way. The dramatic atmosphere captured the Scandinavian experience much better than a sunny day could.
We took the first ferry from Geiranger to Hellesylt through the vast landscape shrouded in thick fog, where the Seven Sisters waterfall emerged like something out of a movie. You can check out a short reel of this on our Instagram page.
With our early departure, we were fortunate to have only ten people on the ferry, including a few older tourists who weren't keen on standing outside in the cold and rainy wind. This made for a calm, intimate, and very quiet journey—one of my best experiences here.
You can find more information about the ferry routes here.
As we neared the end of our journey, Hellesylt suddenly emerged from the fog. This is the other town surrounding the Geirangerfjord, nestled among towering mountains, with a waterfall splitting the town in two. We took a morning stroll, though by now it was 9 AM and tourists were slowly starting to wake up. We grabbed breakfast and enjoyed a view of the town from higher up, near the top of the waterfall.
The fog and mist created a very Scandinavian atmosphere, but I often think about how challenging it must be to live enclosed by the fjords. For any significant shopping or more extravagant experiences, the locals have to travel nearly 400 km to Bergen. These thoughts often cross my mind while traveling, making me wonder what daily life is like here. It’s a good reminder to delve deeper into local life rather than just rushing through it.
We continued towards Stryn, stopping to buy lunch at a Rema 1000, before heading to the Kjenndalsbreen glacier. This glacier is one of the lesser-visited ones in the area, despite the route being very scenic; however, part of the trail is toll-based. This isn’t much of a problem, as you just need to follow the signs and check your license plate on a website when exiting, where you can also make the payment.
It was my first time seeing a glacier in person, and it was both fascinating and haunting. This is truly a sight that everyone perceives differently. Our ancestors probably saw the glacier still firmly in the valley, while we view it from the mountain, and perhaps our grandchildren will only catch a glimpse of it from the mountain top. Standing there at the end of the day was strange and somewhat daunting. There’s also a fantastic waffle shop along the road to the glacier. If you arrive on time, it's worth stopping to take in the view and enjoy some waffles. Unfortunately, we got back just after closing, but no worries—we'll make sure to go back another time.
After that, we headed back to the camping site. The journey was adventurous and foggy, as we took the old road back, which was quite scenic. The mountain road leading to Geiranger is so steep and winding that it requires a bit of skill in the rain and fog.
Tired but filled with new experiences, we could hardly wait to snuggle back into our tent.
6.day
Geiranger-Trollstigen-Dalsnibba
The first day with expected sunshine was the perfect opportunity to visit the famous Troll Road, or Trollstigen, and the Dalsnibba viewpoint. We had been checking the webcam all day to see if it was worth heading out.
We started the day in a bit of grayness with a walk around the town of Geiranger. Since the camping site is located at the upper part of the town, we could easily walk down to explore. We descended the stairs next to the waterfall and then popped into the local shop for breakfast. The prices weren’t higher than expected, given it’s the only store in the area. After grabbing our breakfast, we settled down to enjoy it while gazing at the fjord. This is one of those breakfasts that stayed memorable for me—a simple baguette, cheese, and cocoa. It was such a wonderful moment sitting on that bench.
After breakfast, we explored the souvenir shops, where pretty much the same items were available everywhere. We did find quite a few handmade products, but it was hard to figure out what was authentic and what wasn’t. In the end, we couldn’t resist picking up a little snack and a knitted hat to take with us.
After that, we set off on the Eagle Road to leave the fjord behind and drive towards Trollstigen, or the Troll's Ladder. By this point, we knew that Trollstigen had been closed indefinitely since early summer, but we were still eager to see the area.
At the beginning of summer, there had been more than 10 rockslides in just a few weeks, with one incident resulting in injury, leading the authorities to close the road. Now, you can only view the famous road from above or below, but I think it’s still quite spectacular. If you drive around the area enough, you'll find similar or even more exciting routes, such as the Gamle Strynefjellsveg, or the Old Strynefjell Road, which takes you past and above waterfalls. I believe it’s one of the most beautiful roads in the fjords, and I hope we can return to spend a night there, surrounded by the mountains.
After checking out Trollstigen and browsing the shops, we headed back, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Dalsnibba viewpoint.
We also made a stop at one of the coolest cafes we came across during our journey, where we enjoyed the most delicious chocolate cake. If you're in the area, be sure to visit Gudbrandsjuvet Café—not just for the treats, but also for the unique architectural style of the building.
As we checked the webcam on the Dalsnibba viewpoint, we continued our way back to Geiranger and then on toward Dalsnibba. The camera image wasn't completely clear, but the weather seemed to be improving, so we decided to make our way up.
Dalsnibba viewpoint/Geiranger Skywalk
This location is intriguing because, by driving up to 1,500 meters, you can overlook Europe’s highest fjord, the Geirangerfjord. However, since the road is toll-based and steep, it's not worth attempting when the weather is poor and visibility is low. It’s wise to check the webcam on the Dalsnibba website before heading out to see what the view is like. Of course, the weather can change quickly, so be prepared to spend some extra time at the top to increase your chances of enjoying the scenery. We did just that and ended up cooking dinner at the summit!
From there, we set off back to the campsite in twilight, where we would spend our last night, as the following day we were heading out to the archipelago for a special evening meeting.
7.day
On the way to Runde Island
Today, we're leaving Geirangerfjord and heading out to the island world, specifically to Runde Island, where an evening program awaits us for those who hike up Runde Mountain to meet the sea parrot, the puffins.
The journey to the island wasn't particularly eventful. We took two ferries and traveled along the main roads, arriving at the apartment around 4 PM. At that point, we had no idea just how great our stay would turn out to be.
By 5 PM, we were already hiking up the mountain. Although we wanted to check out the lighthouse before the birds returned, we ultimately decided not to go down there because the weather wasn't very favorable, and later, Dani's knee also started to bother him. By the time we circled the mountain, we were quite tired, and then it was time for three hours of puffin watching.
It was a fantastic sight to see thousands of birds soaring through the air while others perched on the rocks, taking turns. The experience was incredible, and there was an astonishing silence. Everyone respected the birds' space, quietly capturing their presence without disturbing them.
Az éjfél a hegyen ért minket, bár inkább szürkületi fény volt, mint teljes sötétség, így nem volt gond éjfél után visszaereszkedni a faluba és visszaindulni a szállásra, hogy másnap jó sokáig aludjunk.
8.day
Rest day
We reached the mountain at midnight, though it was more twilight than complete darkness, so descending back to the village after midnight wasn’t an issue. We returned to our accommodation to get a good night’s sleep for the next day.
So, our Sunday was spent relaxing, with a seagull neighbor pestering us for lunch, and we just took it easy. I think the FIFA Euro final was happening, and we watched it here too.
9.day
Ålesund-Alnes lighthouse-Atlantic sea park
Refreshed and recharged, we set off for Ålesund, which is about 70 km from the island. However, the journey involves bridges, tunnels, and ferries, so it doesn't feel that long.
Whether it was the love of nature or just the influx of tourists, to be honest, Ålesund didn't quite captivate me. Climbing the 400+ steps to see the view was nice, but the city’s industrial look wasn't as impressive as the pictures suggested, so we didn't stay up there long. The presence of a cruise ship had also brought in a wave of American tourists, which added to the feeling of overcrowding, especially since we hadn't encountered many crowds until then.
We took a stroll along the canals in the city, then hopped back into the car and headed over to Godøya Island. There, we visited the Alnes Lighthouse, which turned out to be accessible without a guide. It was exciting to climb the narrow stairs up the tower and take in the views of the island and the distant sea.
Next to the lighthouse, there’s a café with a small boutique, but we chose to sit outside on the picnic benches and warmed up some tea to enjoy despite the rainy weather.
After that, we hurried back toward Ålesund to visit the Atlantic Sea Park, where we experienced one of the best aquarium visits. The way we saw the fish in their natural habitats was quite unique. The park is actually the largest aquarium in Scandinavia, and you can find a reel about it on Instagram.
Afterwards, we headed back to the island, and on the way, we even got to enjoy a bit of sunshine to wrap up our day.
10.day
Runde-Fugelvåg camping
Today we’re leaving Runde and heading north, specifically to a small fjord campsite near Sunndalsøra.
We only made one stop along the way, but it was definitely worth it. Based on the pictures, we expected a small museum, but when we arrived at the Ishavsmuseet, or the Arctic Ocean Museum, we realized there would be much to see—and indeed, there was. It was the most interesting museum we visited during our trip. The seal hunting exhibit was odd, but it was an important source of income for ancient people, as there weren’t many resources for living in this area. The photos were striking, but it was fascinating to see this part of history.
As we moved up to the second floor, we encountered even more intriguing exhibits. The most interesting for me was the presentation of Ragnar Thorseth's life, a Norwegian explorer. At 76 years old, he has had some incredible adventures. He sailed in the Arctic Ocean, participated in a dog-sledding expedition to the North Pole, sailed to America, and met many historical figures. He even spent a year on a ship in a frozen fjord in Svalbard with his family, along with countless other remarkable achievements that we today cannot easily surpass, given how much simpler it is to reach such places now. I think he’s a fantastic role model, and I regret not taking a single photo in the museum, but it strengthens the reason for you to visit the exhibit if you’re in the area—especially the Aarvak ship, which is housed in a dry dock in a dedicated building and can be explored as the flagship of Arctic expeditions.
Late in the evening, we arrived at the campsite where we rented a small cabin without running water, which was no problem since there was a shared service building nearby with showers, restrooms, and a kitchen.
11.day
Atlantic road
If there’s a route that wasn’t particularly interesting, it was this one. For some reason, it didn’t captivate me, and I feel like there are much prettier coastal drives in both Norway and Sweden. Even though they tried, this road didn’t really manage to bring any excitement. The bridge is interesting as an architectural piece, but only from a certain angle, at a specific time. The archipelago is filled with similar bridges, just smaller, often more intriguing because, for example, some have one-way traffic. So it’s worth seeing, but you don’t need to spend too much time on it.
12.day
Aursjøvegen
The most thrilling stretch of our journey, which we might not repeat in the near future due to some tense moments. If you follow me on Instagram, you might have seen the video of the tunnel, which is just a hewn rock, one-way, and completely dark. That tunnel is located on this road. However, once you reach the mountains, the experience is fantastic. We encountered some sheep and drank from a mountain stream. Then we stopped by a dam to heat up our lunch while the fog descended over the mountains. It was an incredible apocalyptic vibe, and maybe someday we’ll traverse it again, just in better weather.
You can see the full route at this link.
13.day
Innerdalen-Trollveggen
We started the day in Norway's most beautiful valley, where, after a moderately challenging hike, we treated ourselves to delicious waffles and homemade cinnamon rolls with fresh milk while enjoying the stunning view. The hike took about three hours, so our afternoon flew by.
After that, we set off for the famous Troll Wall, and although we might have been a bit tired, we didn't do much else that day.
The Troll Wall and its accompanying visitor center feature a boutique and café, along with some photos and stories of those who have climbed one of Europe's tallest vertical cliffs. It's definitely worth seeing in person—it's incredibly monumental, and I can hardly imagine what it takes to scale that wall. So if you're in the area, don't miss this route; the entire stretch to Åndalsnes is also quite scenic.
14.day
Mågålaupet-Snøhetta-Lom-Sognefjord
Today, we have 450 km ahead of us as we slowly start our journey south, this time traveling along the other side of Dovrefjell.
We had a few planned stops, like Mågålaupet, which is a stunning natural rock canyon. The place is quick to explore, so we probably only spent about 30 minutes there. It was beautiful and very wild!
Today's main event was the Snøhetta viewpoint, which took us about 1.5 hours to hike up. Along the way, we read about the mountain's history from the stone plaques placed along the trail. One interesting fact about Dovrefjell is that it is home to the last remaining wild musk oxen on the European continent. They are very difficult to spot and photograph, so we didn't have high hopes, but we decided to give it a shot anyway.
When we reached the viewpoint, a guide from the park was there to share interesting facts about the area while we peered through a telescope to admire the mountain. Suddenly, the guide spotted a solitary musk ox through his camera—just a glimpse, but it was still fascinating to see. We've since learned where to look for them more effectively, so we'll definitely return to that spot next time. I've marked this location on the Norway map guide for you, but I recommend that you don't head out without a guided tour.
After the temperature reached 20 degrees and we were feeling pretty exhausted, we continued our journey south.
We passed through the town of Lom, where we stopped at a local bakery known for having one of the top 10 cinnamon rolls. Then we continued on, crossing the Strynesfjellvegen once again, this time under sunnier skies.
Finally, driving in the dark through the mountains filled with tunnels in the Sognefjord area, we stopped at a rest area and spent the night in the car, sleeping in our sleeping bags.
15.day
Gudvangen viking valley-Steindalsfossen-Låtefossen
We woke up to the sound of birds chirping and beautiful sunny weather. At that moment, we noticed that besides us, three other people had slept there, along with a horse in a large horse trailer. We packed everything up from front to back and continued our journey south.
We started the day at the Borgund Stave Church, which is one of the most impressive due to its well-preserved condition. In fact, during the old restorations, this church served as a model for others. There's also a museum here, complete with a café and a small shop, where you can find everything from reindeer fur to various Norwegian-themed trinkets, as well as locally crafted soaps and jewelry.
After that, we visited the famous Viking village, where there were all sorts of demonstrations. You could even dress up as a Viking and try your hand at throwing an axe.
Along the way, we stopped at two more waterfalls and found a great picnic spot where we grilled some hot dogs.
We arrived at the ferry in Gjermundshamn in the dark and pouring rain, so we didn’t see much of the journey. By the time we reached the other side, it was completely pitch black due to the thick cloud cover above us, making it a bit eerie to drive along the coast. We knew where we were, but not being able to see anything was strange, especially since there were no cities or houses to provide any lighting.
Then we reached a tunnel that led us toward Odda. It was already around midnight, and since we hadn’t found a place to stop yet, we decided to continue on to Låtefossen. It was almost 1 AM by the time we got there, and after taking out our sleeping bags, we quickly fell asleep. All we could see was complete darkness, and we could hear the roar of the waterfall as we drifted off.
16.day
On the way home
That morning, as I looked out through the misty car window, I was greeted by a breathtaking view. The previous night, we hadn’t seen anything at Låtefossen, so this was a wonderful surprise. It was just us and nature at 6 a.m.… along with a truck driver who was probably still asleep. We spent our last night in Norway here, and from this point on, we didn’t stop until we reached home… well, almost.
We drove along the old Haukelivegen road, where sheep crossed our path once again, and it felt like the rain had painted the landscape. The green, fresh mountain air and the stunning views made this one of my favorite drives.
By almost 9 AM, we reached our breakfast spot, and it was worth the wait. We enjoyed Norway's best homemade cinnamon rolls at the Mjonøy bakery.
On the way, we stopped at the Heddal stave church. Even though it was pouring rain, it was a beautiful sight.
Afterward, we continued on the main roads and eventually made our way to the Swedish border, where we stopped for a good Swedish hamburger at MAX, the best fast-food chain in Sweden. We had been missing their delicious burgers!
From there, we didn’t stop until we got home. We spent an exhausting yet incredibly rewarding 16 days in the Norwegian fjords, which had a profound impact on us. Throughout the journey, we learned a lot about traveling in the north, and I’ll share those insights in a separate blog post soon.
You can find all the points mentioned in this post on the Norway map in our travel guide, along with many more that I didn’t have time to discuss. Discover the wonders of Norway for yourself!
-16 Days in the Norwegian Fjords-